Carroway Crochet

 

“Summer Fringe Skirt”

 

 

Supplies you will need:
Yarn:  Any worsted weight yarn (4) The skirt pictured above uses Bernat Pop Cake Yarn in Blue Blaze.

You only need one cake for an XS, Small, and Medium Skirt.  For the larger sizes you will need a second cake.

You can also use any worsted weight yarn.

Hook: Size H/8-5mm

Notions: Scissors, tapestry needle.

Gauge: 12 dc – 6 rows = 4” (10 cm)

 

 

Abbreviations (uses US conventions)

• Ch = chain
• st = stitch
• sp = space
• sk = skip
• sl st = slip stitch
• ch1 sp = chain one space
• sc = single crochet
• hdc = half double crochet
• dc = Double crochet

This pattern uses US terminology. The US and UK crochet terms are different, but they use the same terms to describe different stitches. Here is a simple conversion chart for anyone in the UK.

 

US Single Crochet (sc) Half double crochet (hdc) Double crochet (dc)

UK Double crochet (dc) Half treble (htr) Treble (tr)

 

 

 

Sizes: – XS, Small, Medium, Large, Extra Large, 2X, 3X, 4X, 5X

 

 XS – Hips 33-34″
 SM – hips 35-36″
 M – hips 38-40″
 LG – hips 42-44″

 XL – hips 46-48″

2X – hips 52-53″

3X – hips 54-55″

4X – hips 56-57″

5X – hips 61-62″ 

 

Instructions:

Note: This skirt is worked in the round so you do not turn your work at any time.

Some rounds are worked as individual rounds with a starting ch and joined with a sl st to the starting ch at the end of the row.

Some rounds are worked in a spiral and counted by moving a stitch marker up at the end of each round.

There are clear instructions as to which kind of round you will be working in the pattern below.

 

The instructions for the different sizes are written up as a string of numbers. The first number is for XS, the second number is for the Small size etc.

 

Ch 105, (109, 113, 121, 125, 133, 141. 149, 161) and join with a sl st to the first chain to form a ring.  Be careful not to twist the chain as you do this.

 

Do not count the starting chains at the beginning of rounds 1-4 as a stitch.

 

Round 1: ch 2, dc into each stitch to the end, join with a sl st to top of ch2.  105, (109, 113, 121, 125, 133, 141. 149, 161) Do not turn the work.

 

Round 2:  ch 2, dc into next st, * ch 1, sk1 st. dc into each of the next 2 stitches*, repeat from * to * to the end, ch1, sk last st and join to the top of the ch2 with a sl st.  

 

Round 3: ch 2, dc into next st, *dc into ch1 sp, dc into next two stitches* repeat from * to *, dc into ch1 sp, join with a sl st to top of ch2. 105, (109, 113, 121, 125, 133, 141. 149, 161)

 

Round 4: ch4, (this acts as a dc plus one ch st), sk1st, dc into next st, * ch1, sk1st, dc into next st, * repeat from* to *, ch1, join with a sl st to the 3^rd ch of the starting ch4..

 

From now on you will work in a spiral, with no ch2 to begin the row, and no joining at the end with a sl st.

You can place a stitch marker after the sl st

 

Round 5: To begin the spiral, ch1, hdc into the ch1 sp, *ch1, dc into ch1 sp, * repeat from *to *, when you get to the stitch marker, ch1, dc between the ch1 and the hdc, at beginning of the row, Move the stitch marker up.

 

Round 6-21 (22, 23, 24, 24, 25, 26, 26, 27): Repeat the (ch 1, dc into the ch1 sp) around the skirt for 16, (17, 18, 19, 19, 20, 21, 21, 22) more rounds from the new stitch marker position. Move the stitch marker up at the end of each round to make counting the rounds easier.

 

At the end of Round 21 (22, 23, 24, 24, 25, 26, 26, 27) ch 1, hdc into next ch1 sp, ch1, sc into next ch1 sp,

 

Place a stitch marker, this is the end of the continuous spiral section of the skirt.

 

 

We now work in rounds that end by joining with a sl st to the starting ch at the beginning of the row. Once again we do not count the starting ch as a st.

 

Round 22 (23, 24, 25, 25, 26, 27, 27, 28): ch1, * sc into the dc, sc into the ch1 sp, * repeat from * to * until you get to the last hdc st of the previous row, sc into the hdc, sc into the ch1 sp, join with a sl st to first sc in round

 

Round 23 (24, 25, 26, 26, 27, 28, 28, 29): ch2, * sk1 st, 2dc into next st * repeat from * to * around to end.  Sk 1 st, join to top of ch 2.

 

Round 24 (25, 26, 27, 27, 28, 29, 29, 30): ch2, dc into the same st, * sk 1 st, 2dc in between the previous 2dc, * repeat from * to *, join with a sl st to the top of the ch2

 

Round 25 (26, 27, 28, 28, 29, 30, 30, 31): Ch1, *(sc, ch1, sc) into sp between 2dc on previous row, sc into the ch1 sp, * repeat from * to * join with a sl st to the top of the ch1.

 

Fasten off and weave in the ends.

 

 

Fringes: optional

Make fringes by wrapping yarn around a piece of cardboard. Mine were 4” fringes, so I had a 4” wide piece of cardboard. When you have wrapped the yarn around, you cut along one side only so you end up with 8” lengths of yarn, which you fold to create your fringe.

If you want a longer fringe feel free to cut your lengths longer.

 

Take two of your fringe lengths and fold with the ends together and a loop at the other end.

Insert your crochet hook into the ch sp between the 2sc and pull the fringe loop through, wrap the yarn for the fringe round the hook and pull the fringe through this loop. Pull fringe tight so it holds in place.

Always pull your loop through in the same direction so the fringe knots are uniform.

Belt
Crochet Option
To make a crochet belt Ch140 for XS, small, medium, ch150 for large, ch160 for the extra-large size, ch180 for 2X/3X and ch180 for 4X-5X.
Sl st down the chain to create a more substantial belt.

For an even wider belt you can single crochet down the chain.

Weave in all the ends.

Weave your belt in and out of the dc stitches on the second row down from the top of the skirt. Start at the middle on the front of the skirt.

Braided Option

For a braided belt you will need six 40” (44”, 48”, 52”, 56”, 66”, 74”, 80”, 86”) strands of yarn. Knot one end and attach this end, (6 strands of yarn) to something to secure it so you can begin to braid your belt. I use a door handle or a chair, you can also pin it to a surface.

Braid the strands and tie off each end to secure the yarn.
Weave the belt into the second row down from the top of your skirt. Start at the centre front.  Decide how long you want the belt to hang down for a decorative feature and readjust your end knot leaving enough length to allow for a yarn tassel.

You are now the owner of a fun and funky Summer Fringe Skirt.  I hope the sun shines on you as you enjoy the summer vibes.

 

 

 

If you have any questions or need help with the patterns, please email me at carrowaycrochet@outlook.com, and Iʼll be glad to help you.