The Happy Hippy Cardigan: Free Crochet Pattern
I am so happy to introduce you to the
Happy Hippy Cardigan Free Crochet Pattern.
Just as my Happy Hippy Sweater brought joy and happiness into the world, there is now the Happy Hippy Cardigan free crochet pattern to spread even more joy. The Happy Hippy Cardigan free crochet pattern was inspired by its sister sweater and it is guaranteed to cheer you up the minute you put it on.
I am so excited to bring you the Happy Hippy Cardigan Free Crochet Pattern.
The Happy Hippy Cardigan Pattern is beginner friendly and makes up quickly due to working with a large hook.
You can make your Happy Hippy Cardigan big and baggy or more of a regular fit. It is easy to customize and all the tips for that are in the pattern.
**This post contains affiliate links. If you make a purchase using some of my links I may receive a small commission at no extra cost to you.**
About the Happy Hippy Cardigan free crochet pattern.
Have you hankered after something a little different. Something with a hippy vibe and some great colour and texture. Then the Happy Hippy Cardigan free crochet pattern is for you.
It is a beginner friendly pattern and has ribbed cuffs and a ribbed border at the bottom of the cardigan. The panels and sleeves are made from the bottom up. You can change colours as directed to in the pattern, or work with a cake of yarn and allow the colours to change as you go.
This is a long and cozy cardigan and I find myself wearing mine all the time. I chose autumn colours for mine.
Don’t Forget to Pin This For Later.
The Happy Hippy Cardigan Free Crochet Pattern Comes in All The Sizes.
The other great thing about the Happy Hippy Cardigan free crochet pattern is it is for sizes, XS/S, Med, Large, XL, 2XL, 3/4X and 5X. So no one is left out.
There are also tips on how you can make it as long or as short as you want. Lots of room to make it fit the way you want it too.
If you prefer to have the pattern in front of you instead of on the screen you can get the ad free pdf .
Get the Pattern on Etsy.
Purchase the Happy Hippy Sweater Pattern on Ravelry.
Let me tell you what I love about the Happy Hippy Cardigan Pattern.
First, I love the stitch combinations and the colour combos working together in such a playful way. This is what makes this such a special sweater design. And it works up so quickly.
The Happy Hippy Cardigan has long ribbed cuffs on each sleeve and the ribbing around the bottom of the cardigan. I love how the solid cuffs and ribbed bottom can be in a strong contrasting colour and tie the cardigan together so well.
Secondly, this cardigan is super airy and this makes it ideal for all weather. The large hook makes the stitches used look so cool and almost lacy.
Thirdly, you can never go wrong with your colour choice(s) when you make your Happy Hippy Cardigan. Some testers used up their stash and it was a ‘go with the flow’ experience. Others methodically planned out their colourway. Still others used a cake with the colours changing naturally with the variations within the cake. The yarns used were up to the preferences of the individual, some worked with cotton and others with acrylic yarn.
Fourthly, the Happy Hippy Cardigan free crochet pattern is a beginner friendly project as it uses basic stitches. If you know how to crochet double crochet, single crochet, treble crochet and chains then you can make a Happy Hippy Cardigan My testers all commented on this and that it worked up so quickly.
You need to make 3 rectangles for the body and (two are for the front panels and then a larger one for the back of the cardigan.) I have added lots of pictures in the construction instructions portion of the pattern so putting it together is a breeze. There is sewing involved for the side seams and the sleeve seams, as well as attaching the sleeves to the body. But all the pics are there to explain everything clearly.
I sent the Happy Hippy Cardigan pattern out to my testing group and you should see what they came up with. So many amazing colour choices and each was so special in its own way. You can really stamp your own personality on this cardigan.
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The Happy Hippy Cardigan
Pattern by Pam Carr ©2022
Introducing the Happy Hippy Cardigan which is made with the Granny Stripe stitch, the double crochet stitch, the treble crochet stitch as well as the single crochet stitch for the trim. You are welcome to play around with colours as you make your sweater. I would love to see lots of inspired colourways and palettes in this top.
Supplies you will need:
Yarn: worsted weight yarn (4) The sweater in the pictures uses Red Heart Super Saver and some other worsted weight yarns from my stash.
You can use any worsted weight yarn. (4)
XS/S: approximately 750 yds.
Medium: approximately 900 yds.
Large: 1,092 yds.
XL: approximately 1,300 yds.
2X: approximately 1,450
3/4X: approximately 1580 yds.
5x: approximately 1,660 yds.
Hooks: Size N/15 – 10.00 mm, For body of sweater
Size L/11- 8mm hook, For sleeves
Size K/10.5 – 6.5mm For sleeves
Notions: Scissors, tapestry needle.
Gauge: 8 dc – 5 dc rows = 4” (10 cm) with a N/10mm hook
(Feel free to go down a hook size to get the correct gauge. You might find the L,/8.00mm works for you)
Abbreviations (uses US conventions)
- Ch = chain
- st = stitch
- sc = single crochet
- dc = double crochet
- sl st = slip stitch
- Tr = treble crochet
- Sp = spac
Special stitch for this pattern.
The Granny Stripe Stitch.
The Granny Stripe Stitch is worked into a chain of multiples of 3 plus 2.
Row 1: Ch 3, DC into the same stitch, (This acts as two dc) *Skip 2 stitches, then work 3dcs into the next stitch*, (this is your first shell). Repeat between * and * until there are 3 stitches left, sk2 st, work 2 dc into the last st.
You should have a row that begins and ends with 2dc’s. on either side of all your shells.
For the next row you will be working into the spaces between the 3dc shells of the previous row.
Row 2: Chain 3, then work 3dc stitches (a shell) into the first sp between the 2dcs at the end of the previous row and the next 3 dc shell. Work a 3dc shell into each space across. At the end of the row, work 1 dc into the top of the ch3 made at start of previous row. Turn work.
Row 3: Ch 3, 1 dc in same space as the ch 3, work a 3dc shell into each space to the end of the row, work 2 dc into the top of the turning chain from the previous row. Turn work.
Row 4: Chain 3, then work 3dc stitches (a shell)) into the first sp between the 2dcs at the end of the previous row and the next 3 dc shell. Work a 3dc shell into each space across. At the end of the row, work 1 dc into the top of the ch3 made at start of previous row.
This pattern uses US terminology.
The US and UK crochet terms are different, but they use the same terms to describe different stitches. Here is a simple conversion chart for anyone in the UK.
| US
Double Crochet (dc) Single Crochet (sc) Treble (tr)
|
UK
Treble crochet (trc) Double Crochet (dc) Double treble (dtr) |
Sizes:
*If you like the super oversized look make the pattern in a size larger than your regular size.
To fit bust measurement
XS/S: 28-34” [71-86.5]
Medium: 36-38″ [91.5-96.5 cm]
Large: 40-42″ [101.5-106.5 cm]
XL: 44-46″ [112-117 cm]
2X: 48-54″ [122-137 cm]
3/4X: 52-58” [132-147 cm]
5X: 60-62” [152-157cm]
This is an oversized cardigan with generous positive ease. It is loosely crocheted so measuring the width varies according to the lay of the sweater and how it is stretched into shape when lying flat. So, these sizes may vary slightly.
NOTE: If you want to customize your cardigan hold up a front panel to you and stop at the length you would like your sweater to be. Then add the sc trim as the final row as per the instructions
Finished size for the front and back panel.
| Size | Width | Length | Arm Drop | Sleeve length |
| XS/S | 18” | 21” | 7.5-8” | 17” |
| M | 20” | 24” | 8.5” | 18” |
| L | 22” | 27” | 9.5” | 19” |
| XL | 24” | 30” | 10” | 20” |
| 2XL | 26” | 33” | 10.5” | 21” |
| 3/4XL | 29” | 36” | 12” | 22” |
| 5XL | 31” | 39” | 12.5” | 23” |
Instructions:
Back:
Do not count the turning ch as a stitch for row 3 and 5 in the granny stripe stitch. Do not count the turning chain for all dc and treble crochet rows.
Note:
Shell or cluster are terms sometimes used to refer to the combination of 3 dc into one stitch or space.
Ribbing:
With a K hook and Brown yarn. (A)
Ch 13
Row 1: sc into the 2nd ch from the hook and sc across. Ch1 and turn. (12 st)
Row 2- 34 (40, 46, 52, 58, 67, 73): sc blo into each st across. Ch1 and turn. (12 st)
Do not fasten off.
Join Ribbing to Body:
Change to 10mm hook
Turn ribbing so the rows are vertical and begin to sc across the top, making one sc stitch into the top of each sc row. Turn work. 34 (40, 46, 52, 58, 67, 73) sc
Body
Change to Yellow Yarn.
Row 1:, Ch2, DC into the first stitch and into each stitch across. Chain 2 and turn. 34 (40, 46, 52, 58, 67, 73) stitches
Row 2: DC into the first stitch and into each stitch across. Turn work. 34 (40, 46, 52, 58, 67, 73) stitches
Bone/off white.
Row 3: Ch 3, DC into the same stitch, (this counts as two dcs) *Skip 2 stitches, then work 3dcs into the next stitch*, (this is your first shell). Repeat between * and * until there are 3 stitches left, sk2 st, work 2 dc into the last st. 34 (40, 46, 52, 58, 67, 73) stitches
You should have a row that begins and ends with 2dc stitches on either side of all your shells.
Special Note.
For the next row you will be working into the spaces between the 3dc shells of the previous row.
Row 4: Chain 3, then work 3dc stitches (a shell) into the first sp between the 2dcs at the end of the previous row and the next 3 dc shell. Work a 3 dc shell into each space across. At the end of the row, work 1 dc into the top of the ch3 made at start of previous row. Turn work. 34 (40, 46, 52, 58, 67, 73) stitches
Note; Turning chain does not count as a stitch in this row.
Change to light green
Row 5: Ch 3, 1 dc in same space as the ch 3, work a 3dc shell into each space to the end of the row, work 2 dc into the top of the turning chain from the previous row. Turn work. 34 (40, 46, 52, 58, 67, 73)
Row 6: Chain 3, then work 3dc stitches (a shell) into the first sp between the 2dcs at the end of the previous row and the next 3 dc shell. Work a 3 dc shell into each space across. At the end of the row, work 1 dc into the top of the ch3 made at start of previous row. Turn work. 34 (40, 46, 52, 58, 67, 73) stitches
Change to dark green
Row 7: Ch 2, DC into the first stitch and into each stitch across. Turn work. 34 (40, 46, 52, 58, 67, 73) stitches
Change to mustard
Row 8-10: Chain 4, Treble crochet into the first stitch and each stitch across, turn work. 34 (40, 46, 52, 58, 67, 73) stitches
Change to bone.
Row 11-12: Repeat rows 3 and 4.
Change to brown
Row 13: Chain 3, DC into the first stitch and into each stitch across. Turn work. 34 (40, 46, 52, 58, 67, 73) stitches
Change to yellow
Row 14-15: Chain 4, Treble crochet into the first stitch and each stitch across, turn work. 34 (40, 46, 52, 58, 67, 73) stitches
Change to dark green.
Row 16-19: Repeat rows 3 through 6.
Change to light green
Row 20-21: Chain 4, Treble crochet into the first stitch and each stitch across, turn work. 34 (40, 46, 52, 58, 67, 73) stitches
Change to brown.
Row 22: Chain 4, Treble crochet into the first stitch and each stitch across, turn work. 34 (40, 46, 52, 58, 67, 73) stitches
For the XS/S:
Change to brown and chain 1, sc into the first stitch and into each stitch across.
Fasten off and weave in the ends.
It is now time to make your front panels..
*For sizes M, L, XL, 2X, 3/4 X, 5X, continue on with these instructions.
Row23: Chain 4, Treble crochet into the first stitch and each stitch across, turn work. 34 (40, 46, 52, 58, 67, 73) stitches
Change to mustard.
Row 24: Repeat row 3.
For the Medium size.
Change to brown and chain 1, sc into the first stitch and into each stitch across.
Fasten off and weave in the ends.
It is now time to make your front panels..
*For sizes L, XL, 2XL, 3/4 XL, 5XL plus, continue on with these instructions.
Row 25: Repeat Row 4.
For the Large size.
Change to brown and chain 1, sc into the first stitch and into each stitch across.
Fasten off and weave in the ends.
It is now time to make your front panels..
*There will now be different instructions for the sizes XL, 2XL, 3/4XL, 5XL plus.
Instructions for XL.
Rows 26-30: Repeat rows 2-6 of this pattern. 34 (40, 46, 52, 58, 67, 73) stitches
Change to brown and chain 1, sc into the first stitch and into each stitch across.
Fasten off and weave in the ends.
It is now time to make your front panels.
Instructions for 2X.
Rows 26-30: Repeat rows 2-6 of this pattern. 34 (40, 46, 52, 58, 67, 73) stitches
Change to Dark Green.
Rows 31-32: Ch 3, dc into the first stitch and each stitch across. Turn work. 34 (40, 46, 52, 58, 67, 73) stitches
Change to brown and chain 1, sc into the first stitch and into each stitch across.
Fasten off and weave in the ends.
It is now time to make your front panels.
Instructions for 3/4X
Row: 26-33: Repeat rows 2-9 of this pattern.
Change to yellow.
Row 34-35: Ch 3, dc into the first stitch and each stitch across. Turn work. 34 (40, 46, 52, 58, 67, 73) stitches
Change to brown and chain 1, sc into the first stitch and into each stitch across.
Fasten off and weave in the ends.
It is now time to make your front panels.
Instructions for 5X
Row 26-39: Repeat rows 2-15 of this pattern.
Change to brown and chain 1, sc into the first stitch and into each stitch across.
Fasten off and weave in the ends.
It is now time to make your front panels.
Front Side Panels ( make 2)
Ribbing:
With a K hook and Brown yarn. (A)
Ch 13
Row 1: sc into the 2nd ch from the hook and sc across. Ch1 and turn. (12 st)
Row 2- 16 (19, 22, 25, 28, 34, 37): sc blo into each st across. Ch1 and turn. (12 st)
Do not fasten off.
Join Ribbing to Body:
Change to 10mm hook
Turn ribbing so the rows are vertical and begin to sc across the top , making one sc stitch into the top of each sc row. Turn work. 16 (19, 22, 25, 28, 34, 37)
Body
Yellow Yarn.
Row 1: Ch2, DC into the first stitch and into each stitch across. Turn work. 16 (19, 22, 25, 28, 34, 37)
Row 2: Ch2, DC into the first stitch and into each stitch across. Turn work. 16 (19, 22, 25, 28, 34, 37)
Bone/off white.
Row 3: Ch 3, DC into the same stitch, (this counts as two dcs) *Skip 2 stitches, then work 3dcs into the next stitch*, (this is your first shell). Repeat between * and * until there are 3 stitches left, sk2 st, work 2 dc into the last st. 16 (19, 22, 25, 28, 34, 37)
You should have a row that begins and ends with 2dc stitces on either side of all your shells.
Special Note.
For the next row you will be working into the spaces between the 3dc shells of the previous row.
Row 4: Chain 3, then work 3dc stitches (a shell) into the first sp between the 2dcs at the end of the previous row and the next 3 dc shell. Work a 3 dc shell into each space across. At the end of the row, work 1 dc into the top of the ch3 made at start of previous row. Turn work. 16 (19, 22, 25, 28, 34, 37)
Note; Turning chain does not count as a stitch in this row.
Change to light green
Row 5: Ch 3, 1 dc in same space as the ch 3, work a 3dc shell into each space to the end of the row, work 2 dc into the top of the turning chain from the previous row. Turn work. 16 (19, 22, 25, 28, 34, 37)
Row 6: Chain 3, then work 3dc stitches (a shell) into the first sp between the 2dcs at the end of the previous row and the next 3 dc shell. Work a 3 dc shell into each space across. At the end of the row, work 1 dc into the top of the ch3 made at start of previous row. Turn work. 16 (19, 22, 25, 28, 34, 37)
Change to dark green
Row 7: Ch 2, DC into the first stitch and into each stitch across. Turn work. 16 (19, 22, 25, 28, 34, 37)
Change to mustard
Row 8-10: Chain 4, Treble crochet into the first stitch and each stitch across, turn work. 16 (19, 22, 25, 28, 34, 37)
Change to bone.
Row 11-12: Repeat rows 3 and 4.
Change to brown
Row 13: Chain 3, DC into the first stitch and into each stitch across. Turn work. 16 (19, 22, 25, 28, 34, 37)
Change to yellow
Row 14-15: Chain 4, Treble crochet into the first stitch and each stitch across, turn work. 16 (19, 22, 25, 28, 34, 37)
Change to dark green.
Row 16-19: Repeat rows 3 through 6. 16 (19, 22, 25, 28, 34, 37)
Change to light green
Row 20-21: Chain 4, Treble crochet into the first stitch and each stitch across, turn work. 16 (19, 22, 25, 28, 34, 37):) stitches
Change to brown.
Row 22: Chain 4, Treble crochet into the first stitch and each stitch across, turn work. 16 (19, 22, 25, 28, 34, 37):) stitches
For the XS/S:
Change to brown and chain 1, sc into the first stitch and into each stitch across.
Fasten off and weave in the ends.
It is now time to make your second panel.
*For sizes M, L, XL, 2X, 3/4 X, 5X, continue on with these instructions.
Row 23: Chain 4, Treble crochet into the first stitch and each stitch across, turn work. 16 (19, 22, 25, 28, 34, 37): stitches
Change to mustard.
Row 24: Repeat row 3.
For the Medium size.
Change to brown and chain 1, sc into the first stitch and into each stitch across.
Fasten off and weave in the ends.
It is now time to make your second panel.
*For sizes L, XL, 2XL, 3/4 XL, 5XL plus, continue on with these instructions.
Row 25: Repeat Row 4.
For the Large size.
Change to brown and chain 1, sc into the first stitch and into each stitch across.
Fasten off and weave in the ends.
It is now time to make your second panel.
*There will now be different instructions for the sizes XL, 2XL, 3/4 XL, 5XL plus.
Instructions for XL.
Rows 26-30: Repeat rows 2-6 of this pattern. 16 (19, 22, 25, 28, 34, 37)
Change to brown and chain 1, sc into the first stitch and into each stitch across.
Fasten off and weave in the ends.
It is now time to make your second panel.
Instructions for 2X.
Rows 26-30: Repeat rows 2-6 of this pattern. 16 (19, 22, 25, 28, 34, 37) stitches
Change to Dark Green.
Rows 31-32: Ch 3, dc into the first stitch and each stitch across. Turn work. 16 (19, 22, 25, 28, 34, 37) stitches
Change to brown and chain 1, sc into the first stitch and into each stitch across.
Fasten off and weave in the ends.
It is now time to make your second panel.
Instructions for 3/4X
Row: 26-33: Repeat rows 2-9 of this pattern.
Change to yellow.
Row 34-35: Ch 3, dc into the first stitch and each stitch across. Turn work. 16 (19, 22, 25, 28, 34, 37) stitches
Change to brown and chain 1, sc into the first stitch and into each stitch across.
Fasten off and weave in the ends.
It is now time to make your second panel.
Instructions for 5X
Row 26-39: Repeat rows 2-15 of this pattern.
Change to brown and chain 1, sc into the first stitch and into each stitch across.
Fasten off and weave in the ends.
Sleeves.
*If you want super long sleeves you can add some extra rows. Hold them up to you to check they are the length you want them to be. Remember, if you customize one sleeve, you need to make the other sleeve the same.
While making the sleeves we will be starting with a K hook and changing to an L Hook and then an N hook as we work our way up the sleeve.
This is worked in the flat and seamed. It is not worked in the round.
With a K hook and Brown yarn. (A)
Ch 13
Row 1: sc into the 2nd ch from the hook and sc across. Ch1 and turn. (12 st)
Row 2- 16 (18, 22, 22, 24, 26, 28): sc blo into each st across. Ch1 and turn. (12 st)
Do not fasten off.
Turn the cuff ribbing so the rows are vertical and ch1 and sc across the top of the ribbing making one sc into the top of each row. You will have 16 (18, 22, 22, 24, 26, 28) sc stitches.
Change to Yellow
There are individual instructions for Row 1 for each size, as this is where we increase to get the full width of the sleeve.
XS/S:
Row 1: ch1, sc into first st, 2sc into each st across (31 sc)
Medium:
Row 1:* sc into the 1st st, 2sc into each of the next 3 stitiches* repeat between * and * three more times, sc into the next st, 2sc into the next st. ch1 and turn. (31 sc st).
Large:
Row 1: *1sc into the 1st st, 2sc into the next st*. Repeat between the * and * nine more times, Make 2sc into each of the next 2 st. (34 sc st)
XL:
Row 1: *1sc into the 1st st, 2sc into the next st*. Repeat between the * and * nine more times, Make 2sc into each of the next 2 st. (34 sc st)
2XL:
Row 1: *1sc into the 1st st, 2sc into the next st*. Repeat between the * and * ten more times, Make 2sc into each of the next 2 st. (37 sc st)
3 /4 XL:
Row 1: *1sc into the 1st st, 2sc into the next st*. Repeat between the * and * ten more times, Make 1 sc into the next st, make 2sc into each of the next 3 st. (40 sc st)
5XL:
Row 1: *1sc into the 1st st, 2sc into the next st*. Repeat between the * and * ten more times, Make 1 sc into the next st, make 2sc into each of the next 2 st, make 1 sc into the next st, make 2 sc into each of the next 2 st. (43 sc st)
Here is where you change to an L-8mm hook if you are doing the XS/S,
Row 2: Ch 2, DC into the first stitch and into each stitch across. Turn work. 31, (31, 34, 34, 37, 40, 43)
Here is where you change to an L-8mm hook if you are doing the Medium and Large.
Row 3: Ch 2, DC into the first stitch and into each stitch across. Turn work. 31, (31, 34, 34, 37, 40, 43)
Here is where you change to an L-8mm hook if you are doing the XL, 2XL and 3/4XL.
Change to Bone/off white.
Row 4: Ch 3, DC into the same stitch, (This counts as two dcs) *Skip 2 stitches, then work 3dcs into the next stitch*, (this is your first shell). Repeat between * and * until there are 3 stitches left, sk2 st, work 2 dc into the last st. 31, (31, 34, 34, 37, 40, 43) stitches.
You should have a row that begins and ends with 2dc’s. on either side of all your shells.
Special Note.
For the next row you will be working into the spaces between the 3dc shells of the previous row.
Here is where you change to an L-8mm hook if you are doing the 5XL.
Row 5: Chain 3, then work 3dc stitches (a shell) into the first sp between the 2dcs at the end of the previous row and the next 3 dc shell. Work a 3 dc shell into each space across. At the end of the row, work 1 dc into the top of the ch3 made at start of previous row. Turn work. 31, (31, 34, 34, 37, 40, 43)
stitches
Note; Turning chain does not count as a stitch in this row.
Change to light green
Row 6: Ch 3, 1 dc in same space as the ch 3, work a 3dc shell into each space to the end of the row, work 2 dc into the top of the turning chain from the previous row. Turn work. 31, (31, 34, 34, 37, 40, 43)
Row 7: Chain 3, then work 3dc stitches (a shell) into the first sp between the 2dcs at the end of the previous row and the next 3 dc shell. Work a 3 dc shell into each space across. At the end of the row, work 1 dc into the top of the ch3 made at start of previous row. Turn work. 31, (31, 34, 34, 37, 40, 43)
stitches
Change to Dark Green
Rows 8: Ch 2, DC into the first stitch and into each stitch across. Turn work 31, (31, 34, 34, 37, 40, 43)
Change to Mustard
Row 9: Ch 4, Treble crochet into the first stitch and each stitch across. Turn work. 31, (31, 34, 34, 37, 40, 43)
Here is where you change to an N- 10mm hook if you are doing the XS/S
Row 10: Ch 4, Treble crochet into the first stitch and each stitch across. Turn work. 31, (31, 34, 34, 37, 40, 43)
Row 11: Ch 4, Treble crochet into the first stitch and each stitch across. Turn work. 31, (31, 34, 34, 37, 40, 43)
Here is where you change to an N- 10mm hook if you are doing the Medium, Large and XL sizes.
Change to bone.
Row 12: Ch 3, DC into the same stitch, (This counts as two dcs) *Skip 2 stitches, then work 3dcs into the next stitch*, (this is your first shell). Repeat between * and * until there are 3 stitches left, sk2 st, work 2 dc into the last st. 31, (31, 34, 34, 37, 40, 43) stitches.
You should have a row that begins and ends with 2dc’s. on either side of all your shells.
Row 13: Chain 3, then work 3dc stitches (a shell) into the first sp between the 2dcs at the end of the previous row and the next 3 dc shell. Work a 3 dc shell into each space across. At the end of the row, work 1 dc into the top of the ch3 made at start of previous row. Turn work. 31, (31, 34, 34, 37, 40, 43)
stitches
For XS/S stop here.
Fasten off and weave in the ends.
Here is where you change to an N- 10mm hook if you are doing the 2XL, 3/4XL, 5XL.
Change to dark brown.
Row 14: Ch 2, DC into the first stitch and into each stitch across. Turn work 31, (31, 34, 34, 37, 40, 43)
For Medium stop here.
Fasten off and weave in the ends.
Continue for L-5X sizes
Change to yellow.
Row 15: Ch 4, Treble crochet into the first stitch and each stitch across. Turn work. 31, (31, 34, 34, 37, 40, 43)
For Large stop here.
Fasten off and weave in the ends.
Continue for Sizes XL-5X.
Row 16: Ch 4, Treble crochet into the first stitch and each stitch across. Turn work. 31, (31, 34, 34, 37, 40, 43)
For XL stop here.
Fasten off and weave in the ends.
Continue for sizes 2XL-5X.
Row 17: Ch 4, Treble crochet into the first stitch and each stitch across. Turn work. 31, (31, 34, 34, 37, 40, 43)
For 2XL stop here.
Fasten off and weave in the ends.
Continue for 3/4X and 5X
Change to dark brown.
Row 18: Ch 2, DC into the first stitch and into each stitch across. Turn work 31, (31, 34, 34, 37, 40, 43)
For 3/4XL stop here.
Fasten off and weave in the ends.
Row 19: Ch 2, DC into the first stitch and into each stitch across. Turn work 31, (31, 34, 34, 37, 40, 43)
Stop here for 5X
Fasten off and weave in the ends.
Construction.
Sewing together the front and back panels.
Place one panel with the right side facing up and lay the two front panels on top of it with the right side facing down. (right sides together).
Side seams.
Measure down 7.5-8” (8.5”, 9.5”, 10”. 10.5”, 12”. 12.5”) from the top on each side cardigan and mark with stitch markers or a short piece of yarn. This top opening will be where you attach the sleeves later.
Note: This measurement is a guide and you can adjust it to fit your sleeve if you need to.
Use pins or stitch markers to join the back and front as you go down the side seams matching up the colours and stitch sections until you get to the bottom edge of the panels.
Using the whip stitch or your preferred method, of sewing, start at the bottom and sew the back and the front sides together. Make sure you are matching the colours and stitch sections as you go. Stop when you get to the stitch marker at the bottom of the arm hole.
Finish off and weave in the ends.
Do the same on the other side of the sweater.
Finish off and weave in the ends.
Shoulders.
Place stitch markers to mark where the shoulders are to be sewn on either side of the cardigan. The two front panels meet in the middle with only a stitch or two separating them.
Using yarn that matches the top of the panels, whip stitch across the shoulder to the neck opening, being sure to match the stitches from either side along the top of the panels.
Stop when you reach the centre point and make a few extra stitches to secure the opening. Fasten off and weave in the ends.
Repeat for the other shoulder.
Fasten off and weave in the ends.
Arm holes.
Using the trim yarn and the 10 mm hook, (or the hook you used to maintain the correct gauge) join yarn to the bottom of the armhole.
Single crochet around the armhole, working 3sc into each treble crochet row, and 2sc into each granny stripe or double crochet row until you get to the shoulder.
Work 1sc into the trim on the top of each panel, (2sc).
Single crochet down the other side of the armhole, working 3sc into each treble crochet row and 2sc into each granny stripe or double crochet row. (some sizes do not have a treble crochet row in this section so don’t worry if you do not have one)
When you get back to the bottom of the armhole, sl st to join to the beginning of the armhole trim.
Fasten off and weave in the ends.
Repeat this on the second armhole.
Sleeves.
Fold a sleeve with the right sides together and whip stitch up the seam from the wrist to the top of the sleeve. Be careful to match the colours and the stitch sections as you sew the seam.
Finish off and weave in the ends.
Repeat for the second sleeve.
Putting in the Sleeves.
Turn the sweater so that the right side are facing each other as it lays flat. The wrong side is facing outwards. Lay it flat on a surface with the shoulders and neck at the top. The front side panels are on the top, right side facing down.
Turn one sleeve so that the right sides are facing outwards.
Turn the sleeve so the top opening is facing to the left side and the seam is at the bottom. The cuff is on the right side.
Open the left front of the cardigan and slide the sleeve up to the left arm hole opening.
Position it so the underarm sleeve seam matches up with the side seam on the left of the cardigan and the top of the sleeve matches up with the shoulder seam of the cardigan.
Fasten in place with stitch markers or pins.
Using yarn that matches the trim, start at the underarm seam and whip stitch the arm stitches to the matching trim stitches of the body of the cardigan.
Fasten off and weave in the ends.
Now take the right sleeve, making sure the right sides are facing outwards. Turn the sleeve so the top opening is facing to the right side and the seam is at the bottom. The cuff is on the left side.
Open the front of the cardigan and slide the sleeve up to the right arm hole opening.
Position it so the underarm sleeve seam matches up with the side seam on the right of the cardigan and the top of the sleeve matches up with the shoulder seam of the cardigan.
Fasten in place with stitch markers or pins.
Using yarn that matches the trim, start at the underarm seam and whip stitch the arm trim stitches to the matching trim stitches of the body of the cardigan.
Fasten off and weave in the ends.
Trim.
With a K hook.
You will start at the bottom front corner and single crochet up the front edge, across the neck and down the other side. Stop at the other bottom front corner.
Row 1: Ch1, sc up and around the edge to the end, Turn work.
Row 2: Ch1 hdc around the edge once more.
You may do more trim rows to suite your style if you want a wider band.
Fasten off and weave in the ends.
You have now finished your Happy Hippy Cardigan.
Thank you for trying my pattern, I hope you enjoy it!
If you have any questions or need help with the patterns, please email me at carrowaycrochet@outlook.com, and Iʼll be glad to help you.
The 15 Days of Fall Freebies Event.
Get the free pdf download for this pattern on Sept 27th.
Don’t forget to get the coupon code for the free pattern over on the main 15 Days of Fall Freebies post.
Click on the download button below and select the ‘buy now’ button. Enter the coupon code at the check on on Ravelry and download your free pattern.
Other Patterns You May Like.
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More Places to Find Crochet Free Patterns:
If you love crochet, you can find over a thousand free crochet patterns including some for crop tops and bralettes over at All Free Crochet
I am honoured to have my free crochet bralette pattern, the Earth Mother Bralette Pattern added to the All Free Crochet site.
It is a great resource for crochet lovers and I am proud to also have my Take Me Outside Infinity Scarf Pattern posted over on the All Free Crochet Site.
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If you have any questions or need help with the patterns, please email me at carrowaycrochet@outlook.com, and Iʼll be glad to help you.
Find other patterns by Carroway Crochet in my Etsy Shop and on Ravelry.
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