Colour Block Crop Cardigan: Free Crochet Pattern
How to Crochet a Colour Block Crop Cardigan
Learn how to crochet a colour block crop cardigan.
Colour blocking is so in fashion now and this cropped cardigan combines both colour blocking and a cropped style in one beautiful cardigan.
Here is a fun and uplifting pattern for you. Meet the Colour Block Crop Cardigan, designed to spread joy. Pick the perfect colours for your personal style and vibe and make yourself this Colour Block Cardigan that you can personalize to be cropped or a little longer. You will feel great as you wear something you have created and it is guaranteed to cheer you up the minute you put it on. AND it is beginner friendly too.
Learn how to Crochet a Colour Block Crop Cardigan with this Free Crochet Pattern.
The Colour Block Cropped Cardigan Pattern is beginner friendly and has easy to follow construction instructions
You can make your Colour Block Cropped Cardigan big and baggy or more of a regular fit. It is easy to customize and all the tips for that are in the pattern.
You can also make it without the colour blocks and it looks just as stylish.
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About the Colour Block Crop Cardigan.
Have you been looking for something a little different. Something that expresses your personality and adds some great colour and style to your wardrobe. If so, the Colour Block Crop Cardigan Free Pattern is for you.
It is a beginner friendly pattern and has ribbed cuffs and a ribbed border at the bottom of the cardigan. The panels and sleeves are made from the bottom up. You can use colours for the different panels as directed to in the pattern, or decide on your own colour block ideas.
This is designed to be a cropped cardigan but you can make it longer if you wish to have a more traditional length for your cardigan. I chose these bright, fun colours for this one modelled for me by Adlayna.
Don’t Forget to Pin This For Later.
The Colour Block Crop Cardigan Pattern Comes in All The Sizes.
The other great thing about the Colour Block Crop Cardigan pattern is it is for sizes, XS/S, Med, Large, XL, 2XL, 3/4X and 5X. So no one is left out.
There are also tips on how you can make it as long or as short as you want. Lots of room to make it fit the way you want it too.
If you prefer to have the pattern in front of you instead of on the screen you can get the ad free pdf .
Get the Pattern on Etsy.
Purchase the Colour Block Crop Cardigan Pattern on Ravelry.
Do You Love Cardigans.
If you love cardigans you may be interested in some of my other cardigan patterns. The Happy Hippy Cardigan is such a fun and colourful cardigan to make. It is an oversized cardigan and features lots of interesting stitches and works up quickly with a large hook.
The Not Your Average Cardigan is made with super bulky yarn and it is also a great beginner crochet pattern if you want to get started making garments.
I sent the Colour Block Crop Cardigan pattern out to my testing group and you should see what they came up with. So many amazing colour choices and each was so special in its own way. You can really stamp your own personality on this cardigan.
Get the latest updates on my free patterns, latest pattern release and share your crochet projects with our Carroway Crochet Community on Facebook. You will also get the updates on new blog hops I host or new pattern releases.
Are you a Visual Learner. Check out this great video tutorial for a cardigan.
How to Crochet a Colour Block Cardigan.
PIN MY FOR LATER.
The Colour Block Cropped Cardigan
Pattern by Pam Carr ©2022
Introducing the Colour Block Cropped Cardigan which is made with worsted weight yarn and the double crochet stitch. I would love to see lots of your cardigans in different colours once they are done.
Supplies you will need:
Yarn: Worsted weight yarn (4) The sweaters in the pictures use various worsted weight yarns.
You will need four skeins of yarn, one skein each of four colours. For the larger sizes you may need more yarn.
Note:
If you substitute yarn, the size may vary slightly, so be sure to measure your panels as you complete them.
Hooks: Size J/10 – 5.75mm for ribbing.
Size K/10.5 – 6.5mm for the body and sleeves.
Notions: Scissors, tapestry needle.
Gauge: 11 dc – 6 dc rows = 4” (10 cm) with a K/10.5 – 6.5mm mm, hook
(Feel free to go up or down a hook size to get the correct gauge.)
Abbreviations (uses US conventions)
-
Ch = chain
-
st = stitch
-
sc = single crochet
-
dc = double crochet
-
hdc = half double crochet
-
sl st = slip stitch
-
Sp = space
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Fpdc = front post double crochet
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Bpdc = back post double crochet
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Blo = back loop only
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Hdcblo = half double crochet back loop only
Special Stitches for this Pattern.
Back Loop Only BLO
The ribbing for the front and back panels is created using the half double crochet back loop only stitch. (hdcblo)
When you see blo after hdc it is to indicate that you do the specified stitch into the back loop only of the previous stitch. I have a video on how to find the back loop on my youtube channel.
FPDC/BPDC:
The ribbing at the bottom of the sleeves is created with alternating fpdc and bpdc stitches.
Here are the written instructions for how to do the FPDC or front post double crochet.
Yarn over, insert hook from the front side of the work to back and then to front again, around the post of the indicated stitch on the previous row; yarn over and pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), yarn over and draw through two loops, (2 loops on hook), yarn over and draw through two loops, (1 loop on hook).
And for the BPDC or back post double crochet.
Yarn over, insert hook from the back side of the work to front and to back again around the post of the indicated stitch on the previous row; yarn over and pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), yarn over and draw through two loops (2 loops on hook), yarn over and draw through two loops (1 loop on hook)
A tip to remember when working this type of ribbing.
When you work 1 front post double crochet (FPDC) around the post of the double crochet in the row below, this stitch is raised on the surface of the fabric facing you. Always make sure that the post stitches are raised to the same side in each successive row.
This pattern uses US terminology.
The US and UK crochet terms are different, but they use the same terms to describe different stitches. Here is a simple conversion chart for anyone in the UK.
USDouble Crochet (dc)Single Crochet (sc)Half Double Crochet (hdc) |
UKTreble crochet (trc)Double Crochet (dc)Half treble (htr) |
Sizes:
To fit bust measurement
XS: 28”-30” [71-76cm]
S/M: 32-38″ [81-96.5 cm]
L: 40” – 42”. [101.5-106.5 cm]
XL: 44-46″ [112-117 cm]
2X/3X: 48-54″ [122-137 cm]
4 X/5X: 56-62″ [142-157 cm]
This is a cropped style cardigan. It is loosely crocheted so measuring the width varies according to the lay of the sweater and how it is stretched into shape when lying flat. So, these sizes may vary slightly.
NOTE: If you want to customize your cardigan hold up the front panels in front of yourself and stop at the length you would like your cardigan to be.
Finished sizes for the front and back panel and sleeves.
Size |
Width of Back Panel |
Width of Side Panels |
Length |
Sleeve length |
XS |
18” |
9” |
16” |
17” |
S/M |
20.25” |
9.5” |
17” |
17” |
L |
22.5” |
11” |
18” |
18” |
XL |
24.5” |
12” |
19” |
19” |
2X/3X |
27.25” |
14” |
20” |
20” |
4X/5X |
29.5” |
15” |
21” |
21” |
Instructions:
The Front and Back:
This cardigan is made with rectangular pieces which form the back and 2 front panels of the garment.
I have used different colours for each panel and sleeve to create the colour blocks. You can make yours with a solid colour if you choose to.
I have used one contrasting colour for the ribbing at the bottom of the cardigan and on the cuffs. Again this is something you can adapt to your taste.
Back Panel:
Ribbing: I used yellow.
Do not count the turning ch as a stitch
With J hook, Chain 13,
Row 1: hdc into the 2nd ch from the hook and hdc across to the end, Ch1 and turn (12 st)
Row 2: hdcblo into the first st and into every st across, Ch1 and turn (12) st
Rows 3-33 (37, 42, 46, 52, 56): Repeat Row 2
The Ribbing is finished and we are moving onto the body of the cardigan.
Change to your chosen colour for the back panel, I used lilac. The pictures used to illustrate this pattern are not using my personal colours.
Turn work and begin the body of the back panel.
Change to a K Hook.
Row 1: Using sc pick up 50 (56, 62, 66, 74, 81) st over the tops of the hdc rows of the ribbing. (It works out to making approximately 3sc into each pair of hdcblo rows. Each size varies so keep count as you sc across the top of the ribbing, and make adjustments as you near the end of the row.)
Row 2: Ch2, dc into the first st and into every stitch across. 50 (56, 62, 66, 74, 81) st.
Repeat row 2 until your panel measures 16, (17, 18, 19, 20, 21) inches including your ribbing.
Note: You can make your cardigan longer or shorter at this point.
To adapt your cardigan’s length, make fewer or more rows to suit your needs. If you customize your cardigan, remember to do the same number of rows on the front panels as well.
Fasten off and weave in the ends.
Front Panels, Make 2.
Ribbing: I used yellow.
Do not count the turning ch as a stitch
With J hook, Chain 13,
Row 1: hdc into the 2nd ch from the hook and hdc across to the end, Ch1 and turn (12 st)
Row 2: hdcblo into the first st and into every st across, Ch1 and turn (12) st
Rows 3-16 (18, 21, 23, 24, 25): Repeat Row 2
The Ribbing is finished and we are moving onto the body of the cardigan.
Change to your chosen colour for the front panels.
I used coral and mint green.
Turn work and begin the body of the front panel.
Change to a K Hook.
Row 1: Using sc pick up 24 (27, 30, 32, 36, 40) st over the tops of the hdc stitches of the ribbing. (It works out to making approximately 3sc into each pair of hdcblo rows. Each size varies so keep count as you sc across the top of the ribbing, and make adjustments as you near the end of the row.)
Row 2: Ch2, dc into the first st and into every stitch across. 24 (27, 30, 32, 36, 40)
Repeat row 2 until your panel measures 16, (17, 18, 19, 20, 21) inches including your ribbing.
Note:
To adapt your length make fewer or more rows to suit your needs. If you customize your cardigan, remember to do the same number of rows on all the panels.
Fasten off and leave a long tail of yarn for when you sew the top, (shoulders) of the panels together.
Sewing together the front and back panels.
Place the back panel with the right side facing up and lay the two front panels on top of it with the right sides facing down. (right sides together).
Place stitch markers or tie with yarn at the top side edges and where the front panels meet at the neck. There will be a gap of a few stitches at the centre point of the back panel. These will be the shoulders of your cardigan.
While you have your panels laying flat you can also place the stitch markers for the side seams.
Measure down 8” (8.5”, 9”, 9.5”, 10”, 11”) from the top on each side of the cardigan and mark with stitch markers or a short piece of yarn. This top opening will be where you make your sleeves. The sleeves are created from the top down.
Use pins or stitch markers to join the back and front panels as you go down each side seam, matching up the rows until you get to the bottom edge of the panels.
Now you can sew the shoulder seams with a whip st or sl st together. Be sure to do several stitches at the end of each section to ensure it doesn’t come undone with wear.
Fasten off and weave in the ends.
This picture shows the cardigan after the shoulder seams have been sewn and it has been turned right side out. You can see where there is green yarn marking where the bottom of the arm opening is.
Sewing the side seams.
Make sure your cardigan is laying with the right sides facing one another.
Using the whip stitch or your preferred method of sewing, start at the bottom of the ribbing and sew the back and the front sides together. Make sure you are matching the rows as you go. Stop when you get to the stitch marker at the bottom of the arm hole.
Finish off and weave in the ends.
Do the same on the other side of the cardigan.
Finish off and weave in the ends.
Sleeves.
I used colours to alternate with the side panels. For my right sleeve I uses the colour from the left panel and for my left sleeve I used the colour from the right panel.
Note:The images used to illustrate this pattern are not using the colours mentioned for my personal cardigan.
The sleeves are worked from the top down.
Note: The sleeves are worked in the round. Do not count the ch2 at the beginning of each round as a stitch.
We start with a K hook.
Start at the bottom of the sleeve opening, at the top of the side seam.
Using sc, pick up 2 st from each dc row as you work up the front and then down the back of the sleeve opening. Join with a sl st.
Round 1: Ch2, dc into every stitch around. Join to the top of the ch2 with a sl st. This join always happens at the underarm point, directly above the side seam.
Round 2 until desired length: Repeat Round 1 until your sleeve measures 14, (14, 15, 16, 17, 18) inches.
Note:
To adapt your length make fewer or more rounds to suit your needs. If you customize your sleeve length, remember to do the same number of rows on the other sleeve as well.
Change to a J hook .
Cuff:
Round 1: Ch1, (sc 2 st together), repeat around the sleeve. Join to the top of the ch1 with a sl st.
If you do not have an even number of dc after the decrease round do not decrease in the final two stitches. You need to have an even number of stitches for the alternating fpdc, bpdc ribbing.
Change to your contrasting colour for the cuffs. I used yellow.
Round 2: Ch2, dc into the first st and into every stitch around. Join to the top of the ch2 with a sl st.
Begin the Cuff Ribbing. There are instructions for the fpdc, bpdc ribbing above if you need to check them.
Round 3: Ch 2, *fpdc in first st, bpdc in next st* rep from * to * to the end. Join to the top of the ch2 with a sl st.
Round 4-8: Repeat Round 2
Fasten off and weave in the ends.
Now you need to repeat for the second sleeve.
Trim.
Using your contrasting colour, I used yellow
Note: You will be starting at the bottom front corner of your cardigan and you will be making single crochet stitches up the front edge, across the neck and down the other side.
Make sure you have an even number of stitches.
With a J hook.
Attach yarn to the bottom front corner of your cardigan.
Row 1: Ch1, using sc, pick up 2 st from each dc row as you work up the front and around the edge to the opposite bottom front corner. Turn work.
Row 2: Ch2, dc into the first st and into every stitch to the end. Turn work.
Row 3 : Ch 2, *fpdc in first dc in the row below, bpdc in next st* rep from * to * to the end. Turn work.
Row 4: Ch2, *fpdc in first st in the row below, bpdc in next st* rep from * to * to the end
You may do more trim rows to suite your style if you want a wider band.
Fasten off and weave in the ends.
You now have an adorable Colour Block Cardigan.
If you have any questions or need help with the patterns, please email me at carrowaycrochet@outlook.com, and Iʼll be glad to help you.
Other Patterns You May Like.
3. The Warmest Feet Ever Slipper Socks.
More Places to Find Crochet Free Patterns:
If you love crochet, you can find over a thousand free crochet patterns including some for crop tops and bralettes over at All Free Crochet
I am honoured to have my free crochet bralette pattern, the Earth Mother Bralette Pattern added to the All Free Crochet site.
It is a great resource for crochet lovers and I am proud to also have my Take Me Outside Infinity Scarf Pattern posted over on the All Free Crochet Site.
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