Simple Sideways Gloves: Free Crochet Pattern

Simple Sideways Gloves: Free Crochet Pattern

Looking for a Simple Sideways Gloves Free Crochet Pattern?

Try Crocheting a pair of Simple Sideways Gloves.

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The Simple Sideways Fingerless Gloves Free Pattern

Ch = chain
sk = skip
st = stitch

sc = single crochet

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Looking for a Simple Sideways Gloves Free Crochet Pattern?

Try Crocheting a pair of Simple Sideways Gloves.

The Inspiration for my Simple Sideways Gloves Free Crochet Pattern.

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These gloves are perfect for beginners. They are made flat and then sewn together at the side seam, leaving a hole for the thumb. You will have so much fun making these and sharing them with loved ones.

There are two sizes available as well so they can fit all the sizes. There are also instructions on how to customize them so they fit perfectly,

Don’t forget to pin it for later and also add it to your Ravelry queue.

This free fingerless glove crochet pattern is perfect for beginners as well as advanced crocheters.

You can make the Simple Sideways Fingerless Gloves using the moss crochet stitch.

Here is a video tutorial I made for the Moss Stitch

And here is the left handed version.

Are you a Visual Learner?

For those new to crochet, I have videos on my Carroway Crochet youtube Channel that will demonstrate how to make my simple fingerless gloves. I have both left and right handed version available to help beginner crocheters.

Here is the Right Handed Version

Here is the Left Handed Video Tutorial

The Simple Sideways Fingerless Gloves Free Pattern

Pattern by Pam Carr ©2025

This fingerless glove pattern is perfect for adventurous beginners or any crocheters wanting some cool looking gloves.

For those new to crochet, I have video tutorials for left and right handed versions of how to crochet the moss stitch on my YouTube Channel.

The Simple Sideways Fingerless Glove Pattern

Finished Size:

Small/Medium. Palm of hand is 8” circumference or 3.5”- 4” wide and

the gloves are 9” tall

Medium/Large: Palm of hand is 9” circumference or 4.5” wide and the

gloves are 10” tall.

Supplies you will need for the gloves:

Yarn: One skein of Bernat Baby Velvet medium weight (4) yarn. Each skein has 492 yds or 450 m of yarn. I used Orchid Hush for the gloves in theses pictures.

Hooks: J/10 -5.75mm for the foundation ch row

H/8 – 5mm for the body of the fingerless glove

Notions: Scissors, tapestry needle.3

Gauge: 7 sc and 7ch1 spaces (moss st) by 13 rows = 4” (10 cm)

Abbreviations (uses US conventions)

Ch = chain

sk = skip

st = stitch

sc = single crochet

This pattern uses US terminology. The US and UK crochet terms are different, but they use the same terms to describe different stitches. Here is a simple conversion chart for anyone in the UK.

US

Single Crochet (sc)

UK

Double (dc)

Special Stitch used in these gloves.

The Moss Stitch.

How to make the Moss Stitch.

Note: the chain 2 at the beginning of each row counts as one moss stitch (sc and ch1).

Chain an even number of chain stitches.

Row 1: sc in 4th ch from hook, *ch1, skip 1ch, sc in next ch*, repeat between * and * to the end. The last stitch should be a sc. Turn work.

Row 2: ch2, sc in 1st ch1 space, *ch1, skip 1 stitch, sc in next ch1 space* repeat between * and * to the end . The last stitch should be a sc in the ch3 sp at the start of Row 1. Turn work.

Row 3: ch2, sc in 1st ch-1 space, *ch1, skip 1 stitch, sc in next ch1 space* – repeat between * and * to the end. The last stitch should be a sc in the ch2 sp at the start of Row 2. Turn work.

Repeat Row 3 to continue the moss stitch.

There are right and left-handed video tutorials for the Moss Stitch on my Carroway Crochet YouTube channel.

Instructions:

Note:

These fingerless gloves are worked flat lengthwise to make a rectangle and then stitched together on the side leaving an opening for the thumb.

The chain 2 at the beginning of each row counts as one moss stitch (sc and ch1).

If you want to make shorter gloves, then you chain fewer stitches for your foundation chain. Remember to always make an even number of chains.

There are two sizes for these gloves.

The instructions for both sizes are written below.

I have written two numbers to represent the number of stitches you will chain to start your project and also how many stitches you will have at the end of each row. The first number is for the small/medium, and the second number is for the medium/large size.

Eg: When you see Ch 24, (30) the 24 is for the small/medium size and the 28 is for the medium/large size.

To make your gloves longer ch up in increments of 2, to make them shorter chain 2 less.

Note: Use the larger hook to make the foundation chain so it is easier to fit the hand into the glove.

Written Instructions

With the J hook

Ch 24 (30) (or less if you want shorter gloves).

Change to H Hook

Row 1: (This is the right side): Sc into the fourth ch from hook, *ch 1, sk 1 ch, sc into the next ch*, repeat between * and * to end of row. Turn work. 12(14) sc stitches and 12, (14) ch1 spaces)

Row 2: Ch 2, sc in first ch-1 sp, *ch 1, sk 1 st, sc in next ch1 sp* repeat between * and * to the end of the row. The last sc is made into the ch3 from the previous row. Turn work. (12 (14) sc stitches and 12 (14) ch1 spaces)

Row 3: ch2, sc in 1st ch1 space, *ch1, skip 1 stitch, sc in next ch1 space* repeat between * and * to the end. The last stitch should be a sc in the ch2 sp at the start of Row 2. Turn work. (12 (14) sc stitches and 12 (14) ch1 spaces)

Row 4: ch2, sc in 1st ch1 space, *ch1, skip 1 stitch, sc in next ch1 space* repeat between * and * to the end. The last stitch should be a sc in the ch2 sp at the start of Row 3. Turn work. (12 (14) sc stitches and 12 (14) ch1 spaces)

Row 5-22 (26): ch2, sc in 1st ch1 space, *ch1, skip 1 stitch, sc in next ch1 space* repeat between * and * to the end. The last stitch should be a sc in the ch2 sp at the start of previous row. Turn work. (12 (14) sc stitches and 12 (14) ch1 spaces)

Repeat until you reach the desired width of your glove.

Note: If you want a wider glove, you can make more rows.

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

Row 1: sc in 4th ch from hook, ch1, skip 1ch, sc in next ch, repeat between * and * to the end. The last stitch should be a sc. Turn work.

Row 2: ch2, sc in 1st ch1 space, ch1, skip 1 stitch, sc in next ch1 space repeat between * and * to the end . The last stitch should be a sc in the ch3 sp at the start of Row 1. Turn work.

Row 3: ch2, sc in 1st ch-1 space, ch1, skip 1 stitch, sc in next ch1 space – repeat between * and * to the end. The last stitch should be a sc in the ch2 sp at the start of Row 2. Turn work.

Row 1: (This is the right side): Sc into the fourth ch from hook, ch 1, sk 1 ch, sc into the next ch, repeat between * and * to end of row. Turn work. 12(14) sc stitches and 12, (14) ch1 spaces)

Row 2: Ch 2, sc in first ch-1 sp, ch 1, sk 1 st, sc in next ch1 sp repeat between * and * to the end of the row. The last sc is made into the ch3 from the previous row. Turn work. (12 (14) sc stitches and 12 (14) ch1 spaces)

Row 3: ch2, sc in 1st ch1 space, ch1, skip 1 stitch, sc in next ch1 space repeat between * and * to the end. The last stitch should be a sc in the ch2 sp at the start of Row 2. Turn work. (12 (14) sc stitches and 12 (14) ch1 spaces)

Row 4: ch2, sc in 1st ch1 space, ch1, skip 1 stitch, sc in next ch1 space repeat between * and * to the end. The last stitch should be a sc in the ch2 sp at the start of Row 3. Turn work. (12 (14) sc stitches and 12 (14) ch1 spaces)

Row 5-22 (26): ch2, sc in 1st ch1 space, ch1, skip 1 stitch, sc in next ch1 space repeat between * and * to the end. The last stitch should be a sc in the ch2 sp at the start of previous row. Turn work. (12 (14) sc stitches and 12 (14) ch1 spaces)